Amen and a Hallelujah

“You can kiss your family and friends goodbye and put miles between you, but at the same time you carry them with you in your heart, your mind, your stomach, because you do not just live in a world but a world lives in you.”

Frederick Buecner, Telling the Truth

Growth means change and
Change involves risk, stepping
From the known to the unknown.

Author unknown

“I Will Be Back and I Will Be Millions”

My life in Buenos Aires has come to a sweet end. It was emotional to say goodbye to my amigos and primos— but I didn’t have total breakdown like I thought I would…maybe that will all happen when Im stuck on the 405 one day. I feel so at peace with everything I did. I’m so proud of how well the trip turned out—I did everything I wanted and more. I’m so proud of the challenges I overcame and how I made the best of each and every moment of everyday. I had a realization on the bus the other day…. I realized I didn’t feel I was in a foreign country anymore. I was just home. When I got back from my road trip in the north, I felt at home. It was a really beautiful and peaceful feeling. Made me really happy, then a little sad, then really really happy. I absolutely love Buenos Aires with all my heart. I miss it so much right now. I will be back… "And I will be millions". Oh Evita, you put it so perfectly.

Besos. Chau Chau.

La Juanita – Siempre en mi corazon.

Today, I visited my little kiddies at the kindergarten at La Juanita. WOW. What a great visit that was. Luca and I went together to say goodbye. It felt so weird being in the van again, making that long trek out to La Matanza. So worth it. When the kids came in, they were really happy to see me and I was so very very happy to see them. I saw all my little darlings and homies. It felt great. Then the best part was the teachers had the kids make little drawings for me. Heart. Melted. Everyone got their scribble on. Then the teachers blindfolded me and the kids surprised me by making 2 giant posters with all the drawings glued on and the sweetest messages. Of course I cried. I’ll treasure that forever. Forever forever. Then Teacher Vivi told the kids to give me a big beso. She meant air beso, but all the kids definitely mobbed me with hugs and kisses. It was the best. I love them and I miss them so much.

The Final Days

My final days in Buenos Aires were fabulous. I did a little shopping, walking around, eating, drinking lots o’ mate, just soaking in everything. Saturday night we got our boliche on at this Brazilian club. Loved it!! I guess my next stop will have to be Brazil one day. Turns out, not only am I the tango master, I can get my samba on too. Sunday night was my final dinner so Cousin B & E, Austin and Sol and I had to go big with the parilla. Steak and wine steak and wine steak and wine and wine and wine. From there we head to a little music club I had wanted to go to forever, called Makena—- Sunday night is the funk jazz night. So, we went! Good music with good friends is a fine way to go. You guys, I literally did everything I wanted. No joke.

El Diez Lives - Argentina v. Colombia

I went to the Argentina v. Colombia futbol world cup qualifiers game last night. How cool is that. The stadium was way packed. The highlight was seeing "El Diez"/"El Pibe"/"El Golden Boy"/"Dios" Mr. Diego Maradona #10. He is the most famoso of any futbol player, and is absolutely worshipped here. He scored 2 goals in the quarterfinal against England... in 1986. I love it. I love that he still has the same mullet. He is now the coach for Argentina national team. Awesome! I have to say though, the Colombians had way more energy and songs than the Argies, I kind of wanted to hang out and light fireworks with them. Argentina wins 1-0! AR-GEN-TINA!

On The Loose In Iguazú Falls

The following events Im about to unfold are totally true. Why would I make this up. So, Iguazú Falls. One of the Unesco World Heritage sites (that's 3 I've visited in Argentina, if anyone is counting)... I took a plane from Salta and at this point have left all my previous travelling buddies and am literally flying solo. It's how it all started actually, so I was happy with this little full circle moment of mine. I meet the new french roomies at the hostel, and explore the town with them. Later on, I went out to dinner with other hostel mates and had a really lovely time. We went to a place where they let you write on the wall with chalk, like in the kindergarten! So blah blah blah 3 bottles of wine later, we start writing. I get really deep and write "Go Big or Go Home". New friend Tigger said it best with "Big Dogs Don't Sit On The Porch". This is way more interesting than mine, and I've adopted it as my own saying. Trust me, this is important to my already long story. Oh, I also wrote LA Lakers #1. That's not important to the story, but important to my people that I repreZENT wherever I am. Anyways...

Next day Iguazú Falls! I've been so excited to see these falls. We get to the park and walk through the trails and viewing platforms. Each view gets better and better and just more incredible. It's hard to put it into words... The falls are intense and stunning not just in sight but sound as well. It's absolutely roaring. It was a beautiful sunny day which means rainbows were everywhere! Is this for real? Yes. We picnic for some lunch and take a ride on our little adventure boat! This 12 minute ride takes you into the falls, gets you nice and close, and at the end, drenches you. Woo! Exciting. Then I was cold and wet, but don't worry, I came prepared. I changed into my bathing suit bottoms... AFTER the boat ride. Winner.

The time finally came to take the train to visit the one and only Garganta Del Diablo Falls (Devil's Throat, ooh). It's been said to save this darling for last, for the grand finale, so we did. We were pumped. We get to the little train station, and the park rangers are all "oh, the last train just left 5 minutes ago". Haha so funny! No, really. ... haha? so funny? no. last train, gone. They literally said "que lastima". So, shit! It's like going all the way to Egypt and not seeing the pyramids. not seeing the Eiffel Tower. which is in France. Um, ok. We try to flirt our way into getting a ride in a truck, no go. (Granted I washed my hair twice in 2 weeks, it's understandable). We see there is a long (3km) path to get there, and we decide to walk really fast. The park rangers whistled us back and said we'll never make it and we're not allowed to go anyways. So we were literally totally screwed, and the jefe park ranger was a major jerk. But then he left. I told the girls, look, we have nothing to lose, let's just make a run for it. We might get kicked out, but what's the difference at this point. Game on! We casually walk to the path, and dart to the right really fast and start hauling ass. Then the park rangers whistled at us again. So we kept running faster. I turn around, 1 girl has stopped so i got worried. But I kept running. I look behind me again and all 3 of us are running through the dang jungle (on a path along the train tracks). We think we hear a car coming so we jump into the bushes and hide. No car, dale, let's go. We keep running (me speedwalking) and a train passes us going in the other direction. More park rangers are on there, and one of them gives me the "no no you cant do this finger wave" So i waved back, hey! Still running. Then another train comes by in our direction, and i really thought about hopping on the train vagabond style, but decided it could end really badly right then and there, and I realized I am not Indiana Jones. We're making good time we think. Then a truck comes by. Shit. We get pulled over by a lady ranger. All in spanish, she's like you didnt hear the whistles when you started running? Huh? What whistles? You understand you can't be walking here right? Im all (in between huffs and puffs), well we just missed the train and its our last day and it was only by a few minutes and we really have to see these falls. She's all, ya, but you disobeyed the rangers. Get in the truck. DAMN!! She starts driving and is all... so, you're only going to have like 10 minutes to see these falls, then you HAVE TO LEAVE and don't miss the final train back to the entrance. YESSSS!!!!!!! We were on our way! I finally get to the viewing balcony and the other ranger was like, sorry it's closed. I FREAK OUT. After rambling some kind of nonsense... he's all just kidding rubia!! Just a joke!! Una broma! So not funny. But it was.

The Garganta del Diablo was absolutely incredible, I can't believe we almost missed it!! What a stunning view, being right over the pounding and the mist of the falls. I could have stayed there for an hour at least. Me and the girls were so triumphant and giddy we were out of our minds. We laughed the whole train ride back to the main station, and blew kisses as we passed by the park rangers on the way back. Neeener!! Friends, go big or go home. Or better yet, remember the big dogs don't sit on the porch.

PS. The park ranger ended up being pretty impressed with us.
PPS. Garganta Del Diablo is the top 2 photos.

Humahuaca - Impossible to Photo Recap, but this is a start

I took about 200,000 photos of the Quebrada de Humahuaca. It was that amazing. Here are just a very very small handful of pics. They're not necessarily my faves. Just some goodies. More to come later, we hope.

Salteño Photo Recap (from Salta)

Walking aroud town, we found Tito's hardware shop. awesome. Then took a ride on the scary gondola for a view of the city. On the hike down I came across the best message ever-- Paola Te Amo, love Jesus. Right back atcha! At night, we headed over to a peña for some live folklorico music, and Damien got his dance on with one of the señoritas. Loved Salta!



















More Salta Pics!

Mendoza Photo Recap!

Day 1: Hit up some vineyards







Day 2: Some biking and wining in Maipu, with the best meal of my trip ever. Calling it right here.








Day 3: Some hot spring action in rental bathing suits

Day 4: Horse riding in the arctic cold

More Mendoza Pics!

Wait, actually, I could live here

I'm back in querido Buenos Aires! It's a very weird feeling to be living in a new neighborhood (Palermo now), and to be living in a hostel. Turns out, Im in the best hostel in the best location. So, Im thinking I can stay here forever. After bunking it up for 2 weeks, I got my own hostel room, and put of stick of dynamite in my suitcase and here i am, home sweet home. There is lots to tell about my Iguazu adventures. Right now, Im uploading some pics, getting organized. But, my bus experience.... no whiskey, no blankets, no cama. We had to "change buses" in Posadas, then I finally got my blanket and cama, but no whiskey. Oh the humanity. Arriving in the Retiro bus station, I got so giddy with excitement. I felt like I was home. While I was sweating and getting stuffed like a sardine in the subway, I wanted to scream with joy. Man, i love this place. Last night, we went to my fave Bar Roberto. It was great as usual.

Dare I Say...

I am so excited to go home to the sum sum summertime. Right now I can´t feel my fingertips, and I wonder why this hostel is leaving the door open. Sounds like I need some whiskey.

Hola from Iguazu! Tomorrow is the day I see the famous waterfalls. I can´t wait.

You guys, in one week from today, I´ll be in LA, stuffing my face with In N Out, Mexican Food or Chinese Food, or maybe everything at the same time. I don´t know how I feel about this, but I´m defintely excited for my future food prospects.

Tomorrow night Im taking an 18 hour bus back to Buenos Aires. I made sure they have blankets. Oh ya, my cold is long gone. Im all good now. Just hungry. Chau chau besos.

Quebrada de Humahuaca

THIS might be one of my fave places I visited in Argentina. La Quebrada de Humahuaca is a highway surrounded by giant canyons of beautiful red, green, purple and white rocks. The mountains are huge, and the colors are spectacular. Along this canyon are a small handful of pueblos to visit. We chose Humahuaca as our base.
We got there at night and had no hostel reservations. So, we just went with Graciela... why not. The place ended up being nice and simple and clean. We went on the hunt for some dinner, and found a really beautiful place with some music. It was definitely geared towards the 2 tourists in the pueblo... you can always tell this by the good lighting. I had some more warm locro (a yummy stew), with Cerveza Norte. Dale. The next day was our one day without being on a bus, yea! We pretty much did nothing but wander around the pueblo, have some mate, wander to the plaza, have some mate, wander back to the hostel, have some fernet, and started the day over again. It was great. Later that day we hiked to the Penas Blancas-- the large white colored mountains and from there, we had an amazing panoramic view of the canyons and the amazing colors. Don´t you wish you could see these pictures? It was a good way to watch the sunset. Later that night, we found the other restaurant with live music and great food. This place was my fave. The food was like home cooked goodness, and I even got a postre of pancake with dulce de leche. drool. The weather here was just gorgeous-- beautiful and sunny, the bluest sky Ive ever seen. Then at night, the temperature drops to a kind of cold I never need to feel again. Good call with buying my legwarmers in Salta.

The next day we took a long and windy 3 hour bus to Iruya. Once again, the scenery was just incredible. I cant get over the colors of the mountains. This pueblo is tucked into a mountainside. It´s so small, with steep cobblestone streets. Being here was truly being a world away from everything. This one lady was knitting some little purse, she was so kind and sweet, wanting to talk to me and see my pictures. Then she wanted me to buy this purse. Then she was talking about how nice my fleece was, and started feeling the pockets. Then I got freaked and thought this little old lady was going to rob me blind. So I was like, k bye! Still, a great day. Oh, and I went down this huge slide in the playground and almost ate it big time. Highlight.

Really got down with the souvenir shopping in Humahuaca. Couldn´t help myself.

Pass the Salta

Salta was GREAT!! I really loved it. I´m bummed I cant post pictures for you guys, but i will soon, i promise! The long cold bus ride to Salta was not nearly as fun as the one to Mendoza. Though we were sitting in front, with the best view, I was definitely blowing my gross germs onto the guy next to me. Oh well. We got to Salta in the afternoon... It was clean and beautiful, gorgeous old buildings, and amazing churches. And by amazing, I mean one is pink and cream, another is blue, and another is marroon and yellow. Awesome. We visited an archeological museum where they definitely had a mummified Inca girl who was found by diggers in the sacred mountains of the Andes. She had been sacrificed to the gods. And now she´s in the museum. It was creepy but interesting. After we had our mate session in the hostel, team P, Austin and Damien went on the hunt for some warm locro and folklorico music. We hit the jackpot at this one place featuring Los Changos de Salta. Or something like that. Damien definitely got his dance on with one of the ladies, awesome. After that we checked out another live music venue. It´s such a nice change to hear different music in this part of the country. The next day we took a little gondola ride to the top of the mountain, and hiked back down. This is where I took the best picture ever. I cant show it now, but I will. Get excited for it. Hint: Jesus loves me. After that, I bought some Inca legwarmers and headed for the bus to Humahuaca-- located in the amazing Quebrada de Humahuaca.

Wine About It

Oh hey friends. Did you miss me? I did. I feel like I´ve been everywhere in the last few days, I can barely remember what happened in Mendoza. I must recap, though Elise sums it up pretty nicely. A ver:
http://elisebaros.blogspot.com/2009/05/wine-2-3-4.html

Day 3 in the hot springs was the best way to not be cold. Day 4 on the horse trip was the worst way to avoid being cold. The cold bus ride, to the coldest horse ride of all time, to the coldest waiting time in the coldest country shack of all time. Then we finally got picked up in the cold bus and met up with crazy people who went RIVER RAFTING. They were cold too. Then we all shivered our way back to Mendoza. Day 4 was intense. I also managed to get my 3rd sinus cold in 6 weeks. How is that even possible? Oh ya, cause Im always cold. The best thing though is that vino in vino country makes it all so much better. After Mendoza, me, Damien and Austin said goodbye to Primo B and E, grabbed our vino and hopped aboard our 18 hour bus ride to Salta. Need I mention... there were no blankets. Do the math.

Wine Country!

Saludos from Mendoza! I took an overnight bus for 14 hours from BA to Mendoza. That was totally awesome. The seats recline all the way back... way cozy. Me, Cousin B, Cousin E, and Damien and Austin all got to Mendoza then later took a little 3 hour wine tour. We visited a few vineyards, and olive oil place and a chocolate & liquer factory. Definitely drank some absynthe. Yikes. That night, we came back to the hostel to have a kick ass bbq with some kick ass tunes.

The next day we visited Maipu (pronounced my-POO.)This was our bike and wine day-- so fun! Rented really shitty, uncomfortable bikes and headed off to the bodegas. I loved the ones we visited... one was La Rural, a vino museum. Then another one called El Cerno, which had maybe the best bbq i´ve had this whole trip. Plus I was beyond starving, so it was extra delish. Then the last one was diTomasso... they gave a nice tour. Then we were horrified when we realized the ice cream and brownie serving was over with. Horrified. We biked the 6k back to the center of town. The weather has been really chilly and cloudy, but every once in awhile the sun breaks through, and it´s so gorgeous. We have the beautiful fall colors everywhere. I loved biking through these orange and yellow covered streets. So beautiful, and it took my mind off how dang slow I am on this bike. I blame the bike.

Then today Bryan, Elise and I went to visited some hot springs about an hour bus ride from here. We were a little tired of having wine, so we enjoyed some beer and whiskey instead! The thermal waters were in between huge mountain cliffs... it was again, so beautiful. The best part was cousins rent bathing suits from weird lady outside the pools. Other best part, the waterslide, what else?

I so wish I could post pictures up!! But I can´t. If you feel like it. Google Mendoza in the autumn, and that´s where I´m at. Besos!

I'm Hittin' the Road Jack!

Hey amigos! I'm moving out of my apartment in about 5 minutes. Wah! Tonight I'm taking an overnight bus to Mendoza (wine country woot!)...staying there for about 3 nights, then overnight bus to Salta, then renting a car to Jujuy, then flying to Iguazu, then bussing back to BsAs.... Then I'll have my final few glory days in Buenos Aires before coming home. Well, at least this is the plan for now. I'm sure I'll be able to check emails along the way, so I'll try and update the bloggie when I can.

Sending much love to everyone. Chau!

Humberto Primo 844. Good Times.

Packing. FML

Arte BA '09

This contemporary art exhibit opened in Palermo. So me, Cous B & E went to go check it out. It was actually pretty cool, had some fun interactive stuff-- like the giant pile of polyester I jumped into. So avant garde. My favorite though was the photography outside that I saw on my way out.... then I saw flamingos through the zoo fence... so I'm really not sure what my fave part was. All good.

Arte BA Pics

Sniff Sniff

Yeeeeekkksss!! I can't believe my life in Buenos Aires as I've known it for 6 weeks is coming to an end. I'm getting pretty nostalgic and lame about it. Few hours ago, I was like... ohhhh, last sunset from my balcony. Weep. But it's good, it's good. I'm really looking forward to my next adventure, on the road, seeing Mendoza, Salta, Jujuy, and Iguazu Falls. This trip sho' ain't OVER. Not until my fat ass is singing in the park on Monday with a liter of Quilmes. Dios help me now. Here are some snapshots of my favorite parts of the city... Congresso building, Plaza San Martin and my querido San Telmo. To this day, I can't get enough of the cobblestone and the beautiful old colorful buildings. I'm so glad I lived in this part of town. Don't cry for me San Telmo.

PS. This is my fruit man, Raul! Mi amigo.


Plaza San Martin, San Telmo pics

Last Day at La Juanita

Oh I miss my precious little darlings already. Today was definitely full of mixed feelings. I was nervous about how it was going to be. Turns out, I took it much harder than anyone else. The kids were like, ok bye! I brought them all little lollipops and I heard "Gracias Paola" for a good 5 minutes straight. Highlight. Then at the end of the day, everyone came over to give me a kiss goodbye.

My time at La Juanita was relatively short, and flew by. I still vividly remember how nervous and unsure I was about it all, but each day got better, each day I challenged myself, and I saw so much growth in myself... and in the kids. On Monday, I visited little Lautaro's house, with the teacher, to interview the mom for the school. These interviews take place in the home, so the kindergarten has a better sense of their living situation, more to observe there, etc. Lautaro has been having such a hard time at school, never leaving his mom's side, crying a lot. Breaks my heart. But today, he was finally, for the first time, playing by himself, saying hi to me, participating, and having fun. I'll really miss seeing the progress of the kids. It was a perfect ending.


Final La Juanita photos

The Last Week

This is the final stretch of my regular good ol' days in Buenos Aires! It hasnt totally hit me yet. I kicked off the week right by revisiting some of my fave places-- La Bomba de Tiempo and Catedral for a little tango. This time I danced like a normal person and did pretty preeettty pretty good. Just sayin. I mean, it's the basic steps, but still, rock.

After La Bomba de Tiempo, we went to a bar down the street, and there was, once again, this random, so very cool, musico en vivo going on. I never got the name of the band, or the place we were at... but they were like... turkish? maybe? question mark? It was really cool.

So, I may have mastered the art of the tango, but at Catedral, there was another folkorico dance situation going on. I was like, hmm, I don't know this yet. But I LOVED it! I could totally work it. The more I'm here, the more I come across these little great music venues, and now it's almost time to go. Altogether now... WAHHH.

Big Willy Style - Boca vs. Arsenal

Saturday was the big quest for La Boca futbol tickets. Naturally, all the information I was given was not totally correct, the game was "sold out". We met Ruben, who said talk to Willy. Willy said he can hook us up, for a hefty price of course. We agree to do it, just cause it might be my last chance to catch a Boca game. Game on.

The next day we meet Willy who immediately tells Bryan and Elise to remove their jerseys... score. (We were going to walk through the visitor section). We walk forever and ever, even get to see the players pass by on the bus-- with police escort. We pass through multiple security points with Willy's wink of an (lazy) eye, and we were finally in the stadium, yay! I smuggled in some Quilmes and was pumped. The game was really fun-- not filled to maximum capactiy as I hoped, but Boca wins which is awesome. Elise and I sat on a railing hanging above the crazy fan "popular" section, under a giant banner. Boca wins 2-1!

Then for the bonus round, I head to El Alamo to catch the second half of Lakers beating Houston. Double winner! Then I went to every restaurant and food place on the hunt for a baguette. Found one, and got it free. Triple winner!

Sugar High

I'm proud to say I got kicked out of a bar on Friday night. It was called Sugar, it was cool, but not as cool as us getting tossed out. We had the top area to ourselves, they were playing fun music. We got some Aretha Franklin, some James Brown, then we got ourselves some ABBA and all hell broke loose. Glasses started falling, then we started throwing the glasses, and pretending we were Greek. Then we got escorted out by 6 people. It was cool, we were trying figure out the next place to go. (pizza). So, yay Sugar!