Wine Country!

Saludos from Mendoza! I took an overnight bus for 14 hours from BA to Mendoza. That was totally awesome. The seats recline all the way back... way cozy. Me, Cousin B, Cousin E, and Damien and Austin all got to Mendoza then later took a little 3 hour wine tour. We visited a few vineyards, and olive oil place and a chocolate & liquer factory. Definitely drank some absynthe. Yikes. That night, we came back to the hostel to have a kick ass bbq with some kick ass tunes.

The next day we visited Maipu (pronounced my-POO.)This was our bike and wine day-- so fun! Rented really shitty, uncomfortable bikes and headed off to the bodegas. I loved the ones we visited... one was La Rural, a vino museum. Then another one called El Cerno, which had maybe the best bbq i´ve had this whole trip. Plus I was beyond starving, so it was extra delish. Then the last one was diTomasso... they gave a nice tour. Then we were horrified when we realized the ice cream and brownie serving was over with. Horrified. We biked the 6k back to the center of town. The weather has been really chilly and cloudy, but every once in awhile the sun breaks through, and it´s so gorgeous. We have the beautiful fall colors everywhere. I loved biking through these orange and yellow covered streets. So beautiful, and it took my mind off how dang slow I am on this bike. I blame the bike.

Then today Bryan, Elise and I went to visited some hot springs about an hour bus ride from here. We were a little tired of having wine, so we enjoyed some beer and whiskey instead! The thermal waters were in between huge mountain cliffs... it was again, so beautiful. The best part was cousins rent bathing suits from weird lady outside the pools. Other best part, the waterslide, what else?

I so wish I could post pictures up!! But I can´t. If you feel like it. Google Mendoza in the autumn, and that´s where I´m at. Besos!

I'm Hittin' the Road Jack!

Hey amigos! I'm moving out of my apartment in about 5 minutes. Wah! Tonight I'm taking an overnight bus to Mendoza (wine country woot!)...staying there for about 3 nights, then overnight bus to Salta, then renting a car to Jujuy, then flying to Iguazu, then bussing back to BsAs.... Then I'll have my final few glory days in Buenos Aires before coming home. Well, at least this is the plan for now. I'm sure I'll be able to check emails along the way, so I'll try and update the bloggie when I can.

Sending much love to everyone. Chau!

Humberto Primo 844. Good Times.

Packing. FML

Arte BA '09

This contemporary art exhibit opened in Palermo. So me, Cous B & E went to go check it out. It was actually pretty cool, had some fun interactive stuff-- like the giant pile of polyester I jumped into. So avant garde. My favorite though was the photography outside that I saw on my way out.... then I saw flamingos through the zoo fence... so I'm really not sure what my fave part was. All good.

Arte BA Pics

Sniff Sniff

Yeeeeekkksss!! I can't believe my life in Buenos Aires as I've known it for 6 weeks is coming to an end. I'm getting pretty nostalgic and lame about it. Few hours ago, I was like... ohhhh, last sunset from my balcony. Weep. But it's good, it's good. I'm really looking forward to my next adventure, on the road, seeing Mendoza, Salta, Jujuy, and Iguazu Falls. This trip sho' ain't OVER. Not until my fat ass is singing in the park on Monday with a liter of Quilmes. Dios help me now. Here are some snapshots of my favorite parts of the city... Congresso building, Plaza San Martin and my querido San Telmo. To this day, I can't get enough of the cobblestone and the beautiful old colorful buildings. I'm so glad I lived in this part of town. Don't cry for me San Telmo.

PS. This is my fruit man, Raul! Mi amigo.


Plaza San Martin, San Telmo pics

Last Day at La Juanita

Oh I miss my precious little darlings already. Today was definitely full of mixed feelings. I was nervous about how it was going to be. Turns out, I took it much harder than anyone else. The kids were like, ok bye! I brought them all little lollipops and I heard "Gracias Paola" for a good 5 minutes straight. Highlight. Then at the end of the day, everyone came over to give me a kiss goodbye.

My time at La Juanita was relatively short, and flew by. I still vividly remember how nervous and unsure I was about it all, but each day got better, each day I challenged myself, and I saw so much growth in myself... and in the kids. On Monday, I visited little Lautaro's house, with the teacher, to interview the mom for the school. These interviews take place in the home, so the kindergarten has a better sense of their living situation, more to observe there, etc. Lautaro has been having such a hard time at school, never leaving his mom's side, crying a lot. Breaks my heart. But today, he was finally, for the first time, playing by himself, saying hi to me, participating, and having fun. I'll really miss seeing the progress of the kids. It was a perfect ending.


Final La Juanita photos

The Last Week

This is the final stretch of my regular good ol' days in Buenos Aires! It hasnt totally hit me yet. I kicked off the week right by revisiting some of my fave places-- La Bomba de Tiempo and Catedral for a little tango. This time I danced like a normal person and did pretty preeettty pretty good. Just sayin. I mean, it's the basic steps, but still, rock.

After La Bomba de Tiempo, we went to a bar down the street, and there was, once again, this random, so very cool, musico en vivo going on. I never got the name of the band, or the place we were at... but they were like... turkish? maybe? question mark? It was really cool.

So, I may have mastered the art of the tango, but at Catedral, there was another folkorico dance situation going on. I was like, hmm, I don't know this yet. But I LOVED it! I could totally work it. The more I'm here, the more I come across these little great music venues, and now it's almost time to go. Altogether now... WAHHH.

Big Willy Style - Boca vs. Arsenal

Saturday was the big quest for La Boca futbol tickets. Naturally, all the information I was given was not totally correct, the game was "sold out". We met Ruben, who said talk to Willy. Willy said he can hook us up, for a hefty price of course. We agree to do it, just cause it might be my last chance to catch a Boca game. Game on.

The next day we meet Willy who immediately tells Bryan and Elise to remove their jerseys... score. (We were going to walk through the visitor section). We walk forever and ever, even get to see the players pass by on the bus-- with police escort. We pass through multiple security points with Willy's wink of an (lazy) eye, and we were finally in the stadium, yay! I smuggled in some Quilmes and was pumped. The game was really fun-- not filled to maximum capactiy as I hoped, but Boca wins which is awesome. Elise and I sat on a railing hanging above the crazy fan "popular" section, under a giant banner. Boca wins 2-1!

Then for the bonus round, I head to El Alamo to catch the second half of Lakers beating Houston. Double winner! Then I went to every restaurant and food place on the hunt for a baguette. Found one, and got it free. Triple winner!

Sugar High

I'm proud to say I got kicked out of a bar on Friday night. It was called Sugar, it was cool, but not as cool as us getting tossed out. We had the top area to ourselves, they were playing fun music. We got some Aretha Franklin, some James Brown, then we got ourselves some ABBA and all hell broke loose. Glasses started falling, then we started throwing the glasses, and pretending we were Greek. Then we got escorted out by 6 people. It was cool, we were trying figure out the next place to go. (pizza). So, yay Sugar!

Bar 12 de Octubre

This might be one of the top 3 fave places in all of Buenos Aires that I've been to. I'm not sure what the other 2 are yet. We were looking for some musico en vivo, and hit the jackpot. This tiny little bar is so intimate, and so old and full of character. There is a teeny little spot for a guitar player and my querido Roberto who sang some tango songs. But really, he was a story teller. I absolutely LOVED it. I was also able to understand a lot of the lyrics, which made it so much more awesome! I'm not sure his name is Roberto, but it might be. It is for now. If there was ever a place that made me stay in Buenos Aires forever, this could be it.
Oops, did I type that out loud?


Mas pics from fave bar 12 de octubre and museum

Very Happy Hour at Club Museum

Wednesday night was super fun. We went to an "after office" party/dance club thing at Museum, in San Telmo. This is like our version of Taco Tuesdays, except people are in business suits, and are dancing in a 3 story warehouse club designed by the Eiffel Tower guy. Whose last name is actually Eiffel. The music was super fun, and so we might go back next Wednesday and get some dinner there too. I think this was also the night when the Norweigans learned the terms "fiesta de chorizo" and "mercado de carne". Buenos tiempos.

¡Feliz Cumpleaños Tito!

SALUUUUD!

Rain Day

Today I woke up to the lovely sound of rain. Then I remembered I still need to travel almost 2 hours by van and bus to get to work. (The van is the photo on the left) Dang! So I'm waiting for my friends to arrive, and I think to myself, I'd give anything to just sit inside and have some coffee right now. Just a passing thought. Then a minute later, I call my friend who didnt show up yet, and she's like oh you didn't get my message? I sho' didn't. Turns out we didn't have to go to work today. Rain Day y'all! Woot! Most of the kids probably won't show up anyways. Suhweet! So I went ahead and sat my booty down for some nice warm coffee at Cafe Tortoni. I guess this place is kind of a big deal-- big tango history. There is usually a line of tourists outside to get in, but today it was pretty empty. Score!

My psychic powers have also brought the rain to Buenos Aires. A few days ago I was feeling slightly irritated at the heat. I thought, geez, does it ever rain here? Isn't it supposed to be fall? I don't want to be hot and gross here and go back to LA and be more hot and gross there. Boo! Oh ok, so now it's freezing cold and rainy. Thanks to me. I'm enjoying it though! Sure hope it leaves by tomorrow!

Yo Tango a Big Fat Gut

Last night was round 2 of my tango class. Sadly, I only have one more Tuesday left in Buenos Aires. WHAT?! The class went well, we had more people this time, and got to do more dancing with a pareja. For some really strange, odd, unknown, mysterious, je ne sais quoi reason, the tango teacher kept coming by and slapping my big fat gut of a stomach, telling me to suck it in and stand up straight. OMG!!! **Sigh** I love tango.

Deep Thoughts

Dudes, I passed my half way mark last Wednesday. I'm not sure why I didn't make a big deal about it, but it is! The best part is I've done all the things I've wanted to do already. The only one missing is seeing a game at La Boca. That could all go down this coming Sunday.

...

I've made it a point to be positive about (almost) everything. BUUUTT, the one thing that is really killing me are my keys. I have 2 keys. 1 for the front main door, the other for my apartment door. When I got these keys, I was like ooh coool! They look so neat. No, not cool. You have to put the key in just so, and turn it like 5 times. And I pretty much NEVER get it right the first time. It's always upside down, or I'm turning it the wrong way, or it's upside down AND being turned the wrong way. How can there be so many options for this thing. And every time this is going on, my bladder is about to burst. Then today I saw a guy at the bank with like 10 of these keys on a key ring... and I'm like, ok, it's not so bad.

...

I'm not above eating at McDonald's in a foreign country. Or a Burger King, or a Subway. I don't do it often, but I do it. It's not out of desperation, just jonesing for a little hamburger ok? People that are so culturally above this probably don't watch tv either, and I just don't know what to do about these people. Anyway, as simple as ordering a cheeseburger and fries sounds, it's really not. At Burger King, I wanted a kids meal, and somehow ended up with EXTRA pickles, onions and ketchup (no toy!). Today at McDonald's, I got nothing but cheese. Why can't I just get a regular dang burger? Also, maybe it's a good thing that there aren't stacks of burgers in the heating window ready to be served, but it is a bit maddening when you're starving and all you can think about is how inefficient this all is. Plus, it cost me like $5.

...

Did some shopping today (had the day "off", yay). And this all left me in a really good mood. I found everything I was looking for, and even got me some mo' boots! But the best part is that I got so many compliments on my spanish today. I mean, ya, these people were selling me things, but it was still nice of them to say it.

...

Had a totally awkward but funny exchange with Raul, the fruit guy, about the size of his cucumbers.

¿Um, Can I Come In?

Today I went over to the house of Martiniano Arce, the "Filetador de Buenos Aires". This is the place I walk by everyday, admire the building, and keep walking. Now that I know a little more about the "Filete" painting style, I was totally intrigued. I was also under the impression it was open to the public. So I walk by, and don't see a door (the house is on the top floor). I go to the little cafe underneath it, and ask the nice old man about the house up top. He said it's very beautiful there, just try buzzing the door and they might let you in. I'm like.... ooook. What exactly am I supposed to say? Well, it went a little something like this:

(after standing by the buzzer for 5 minutes, thinking of what to say)
Me: Buzz.
Lady: Si?
Me: Hello! I read in a magazine about your house. Can I see it? (Of course a giant bus storms by, and she hears nothing)
Lady: Wait, I'm coming down.
...
Lady: So... what are wanting to do?
Me: I read in a magazine about your house. Is private house, yes?
Lady: Yes
Me: So, I can come in and see it?
Lady: Welllll... (laughing a little at this point)
Me: Sorry, I understood that there is a gallery here?
Lady: Oh! The gallery is actually on Calle Cerrito, this is just his house.
Me: Riiiiight. Gracias!

So I definitley walked up to a stranger's house and asked if I can come in and see it. I was less sad about not being let in, and more happy that I didn't chicken out and managed to have this conversation. The lady was very very nice about it. It was all pretty funny. But, I was able to get a glimpse of the ceiling fan from the street, and it definitely is pimped out with the filete painting. Me loves.

Filete

So, I've mentioned before how much I'm into the "Filete" art they have here. It's less of an "art form", more of a style of decoration, very typical of Argentina. It's everywhere, and I love love love it! Today I bought another little sign for myself. I also chatted up the "Filetador" in the San Telmo market and he told me a little bit about it. Then I just googled it, and found this little article...click here

Theeennn, in the article, it mentions the workshop of Martiniano Arce. I pass by this building everyday, it's also right across from the Origen Cafe that I love so much. I'm always looking at it, thinking it's so pretty, and it has a filete style sign outside...but whatever, everything does. So turns out, it's a workshop and home of a well known filetador, and I guess, we can go inside?? I'm so gonna try tomorrow, I can't wait!

Los Angeles Lackers

Well this was awesome. The local Argentine ESPN mispelled Lakers to Lackers. Seeing as how pathetic the Lakers played, it's almost appropriate. I found my way to El Alamo bar. I was a little nervous, thinking I was walking into some lame Hooters type bar... but this was during the day and way mellow. I got a stool at the bar, sat next to a Houston Rocket fan, while a Boston Celtic fan served me some Stella. And then we lost. FML.

Before heading off to the game, I come home and my Frenchie neighbor, Soy, was like do you live on the 3rd floor? I said ya (aka I live 2 doors down from her, and we never knew this). She's all, it's totally flooded. So wow, the panic kicked in really fast. Turns out, my direct neighbor had a broken pipe, and it was a HOT WATER pipe! The dog was barking, the floor was 2 inches in water, and somehow, none of it seeped into my apartment. I am so lucky. The guy finally came home, opened the door, and it was like a hot steamy sauna in there. Water everywhere. He also has a way nicer apartment then me. I offered him my squeegie, I felt bad. Then I awkwardly had to find a way to leave so I could go watch the game. Am I a bad neighbor?

I'm sorry, liver, it's almost over

Thursday night we chilled back at Post Bar for some cervezas and popcorn and awesome blues and rock music (I happened to be craving all 3 at the same time). Then Friday we went to a reggae club and it was really super fun. Who knew I could dance to reggae music for like 5 hours?! I didn't, but then I did! The crowd was really chill (duh), the music was really good. Best part, was there was actual room to dance and I never got groped, bonus! It was a nice change from the usual dance clubs we've been going to. Saturday I forced myself out of bed, and out of the house, and did some afternoon San Telmo park strolling and cafe sitting. I actually love days like these. Later, me, Austin and Kylie had to kill some time before it was acceptable to enter a restaurant for an "early" dinner. So we had some really sad tex mex. I had to actually request for them to put cheese on our nachos. Sad. Mexican food, I miss you so! Then later we had my fave pizza and wine at my fave San Telmo pizza place. After a quick little nap (at 10:30 btw), I drag my ass back out again to meet the primos in Palermo. Good times.

Here is what I'm doing today. I'm going to see a LAKER GAME, FINALLY!! I guess there is some bar that shows american sports, and I'm all up in it later on today. ALSO, rumor has it that ladies drink free beer until 8:30pm. Well tip off is 4:30 folks. I can't wait.

We Be Jammin'

Feliz Dia De Las Madres!

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!!!!! I love you both and hope you are having a nice time in Seattle. Kissy kissy.

Gone Fishin

Hola amigos. Well, I've been internet-less for about 24 hours. What a horrifying feeling that is, wow. Now I'm back baby I'm BACK! I just had to restart the internet box thingie. Doy.

Working at the kindergarten really gets better and better everyday. I'm having more conversations with the kids and the moms, and I'm really feeling like a part of this community now, instead of just some weird outsider. Today the kids played with the games I brought from home-- alphabet puzzle, shapes puzzle and the fishing game-- which they really LOOOVED. It was so cute to watch them play. And they actually all played really well together, were really patient, and were a total joy. I'm so proud. At first when Claudia (the teacher) said she was going to open the games today, I had a minor old-Paola control freak out, thinking, oh no, the pieces are going to get lost, it's going to be a mess, they're gonna break it, etc. I know, lame, and I know, they're 4. But it worked out really well. Then when they went back outside to play, I put the alphabet pieces in their correct places :)

Takes 3 to Tango

Turns out I kick major ass at tangooooo! It was really fun, and yes, i'm practicing in my piso while listening to Carlos Gardel. You know it. For awhile it was just me and the teacher waiting for more people to show up. It was a little awkward. In my head, i'm like heh, two to tango, heh. Then Maria showed up. Fine, 3 to tango. We did basic stretches and then danced along a wall. "The wall is your partner". mkay. The moves got more and more complicated, and I got more and more awesome. I'm totally going back next week. Best news = it's one block away!

"ESO ME GUSTO!" Ya I heard that a lot.

Sculptadorrreees!

The title of this post will only be funny to a small amount of people, but it's worth it. School Day #2 at La Juanita was another success (for me). The kids are starting to smile at me, talk to me, hold my hand and play with me. So much better than just staring and getting sand thrown at me. Today the kids colored leaves and glued them onto a tree. Later, we had some playtime outside, and some wanted to play with clay. One girl asked me to do something with it... and triumphant memories of sculptadores from Cranium flooded my way. I mean, I can sculpt a house, a turtle, even action words. But, for them, I sculpted a corazon (heart). Then I made like 10 more. It was really fun! Then we pointed out all the colors blended into the clay. Good times at the kindergarten today. I never thought my (amazing) cranium skills would come in so handy.

You guys, I have a tango class today, for reals! I'm so excited.

First Day of School!

Today was a big day at La Juanita -- the first day of school at "El Jardín Ciel" (the kindergarten). We arrived early to get the last minute details finalized. The kids and parents started arriving around noon. A bunch of volunteers helped make pizza and we later served them with lots and lots and lots of soda...help get our niños nice and riled up. Some kids were excited, some petrified, like anywhere else. The parents were so proud, taking lots of pictures-- I really loved seeing this. The parents are pretty involved in the school... It's a good thing, but also a double edged sword in that the kids have a harder time seperating themselves.

Once school officially started, everyone left and entered from the side entrance, and we greeted them as they walked in. We (well, they) sang songs and raised 2 flags-- one for Argentina, and another as a symbol of the peace, strength and unity that La Juanita strongly promotes in the community. Once inside the classroom, we had a small handful of hysterics, but overall it went well. Some moms stayed in the classroom, but I think starting tomorrow, they aren't allowed to stay. Probably a good idea. I passed around some molding clay, some kids ate it. Others played with the doll house, others with the musical instruments (bad idea), others with building blocks. I built a little wooden house with little Paulina. She's named after Paulina Rubia the singer, and doesnt seem to care that I have a cousin named Pauliina. Or that my name is Paola. She just stared at me. It's cool it's cool. We'll bond later over that. After passing out some milk and cookies, the first day was officially over, and I was officially exhausted. We had a brief meeting with the teachers and supervisor, and some of the visiting "godfathers" (Padrinos), and we were on our way back to BA. I'm excited to see how the rest of the kindergarten develops, there's a lot of transition for everyone involved. I'm hoping I can get to know some of the moms better, and have some sort of conversation with the kids. It's waaaay harder than I expected, but I guess any kid at age 3 or 4 is not so easy to talk to!

El Jardín Pics

Deja Vu - Palermo Saturdays, San Telmo Sundays

Had another Saturday night out in Palermo, same club as last time. Woke up late, ate the same breakfast, and went to the San Telmo market again. I seem to have found myself a lovely little routine!

More San Telmo Pics

San Antonio de Areco - Estancia El Ombú

On Friday morning, Sol, Luca & I visited an estancia in the Northern Pampas area of Argentina. The town is San Antonio de Areco, and we stayed at Estancia El Ombú. It was one of the most peaceful and relaxing 2 days. The weather was another perfect 75 degrees, sunny and breezy. The buses were full in the morning, so we took a private car out there (we met the driver at the gas station...see below, sigh). We were greated by wine and empanadas. Yes please! We went to say hi to the horses, and got to watch a really cool demonstration by the resident gauchos-- they played musical chairs on horses, they did some races, they demonstrated how the horses are trained to follow the "godmother" horse, and lots of other fun games. One of the games involved the gauchos and lady gauchas running the horse, and trying to catch a silver ring on a stick. If they drop the ring, it doesn't count. If they get the ring, they give it to someone in exchange for a beso. Well lucky me! A gaucho caught the ring and gave it to me, and i had to kiss him (on the check, please). Then later when we were horseback riding and he's all I'm really from Florida. Bust!

A giant asado lunch followed, and we had tons of good meat and even a salad... oh and a whole bottle of wine. I really liked this place a lot. Later on, we saddled up to the horsies and took a ride through the pampas. This was my favorite part. I was really soaking it all in. We got to trot and gallop, so fun! I also thought it was funny no one bothered to ask about anyone's skill level, there was no instruction, no signing your life away... just giddy up y'all. After horses, we siesta'd, then walked around some more, did some bike riding, then came back for dinner. The dining room was really beautiful, we sat next to the fireplace. And had another bottle of wine.

The next day we had some breakfast and took one more ride on the horses. This time, our fave gaucho, Oscar, took us on a private ride. This was the highlight of the whole trip. He's the real deal, definitely not from Florida. He explained how the ranch is a working ranch, they have about 300 cows and they sell them for meat. He broke his back and leg in a fall a long time ago, which is why his back is so hunched. Wow, he was really sweet... he also serenaded us during lunch. We love Oscar! We left and took a walk through the main plaza of San Antonio de Areco... everything was closed up for the holiday weekend, but it was still nice nonetheless. It was a really nice time!

Giddy Up

Oops

What I meant to say: We're here at the gas station ready to get picked up. We're 2 blondes and 1 guy.

What I really said: We're here at the gas station, ready to get fu@%ed. We're 2 blondes and 1 guy.

True story. I've been warned about using this word before, but I thought that was only the rule in Spain. Apparently, it's also the rule in Argentina. Coger does not equal arreglar. Bueno.

Also, in Patagonia, in the rain, I definitely said I wish I could wrap myself in a hot dog. I mean, that's not such a bad thing, sounds nice actually. But "Pancho" is hot dog, and "Poncho" is ... poncho.