Sniff Sniff

Yeeeeekkksss!! I can't believe my life in Buenos Aires as I've known it for 6 weeks is coming to an end. I'm getting pretty nostalgic and lame about it. Few hours ago, I was like... ohhhh, last sunset from my balcony. Weep. But it's good, it's good. I'm really looking forward to my next adventure, on the road, seeing Mendoza, Salta, Jujuy, and Iguazu Falls. This trip sho' ain't OVER. Not until my fat ass is singing in the park on Monday with a liter of Quilmes. Dios help me now. Here are some snapshots of my favorite parts of the city... Congresso building, Plaza San Martin and my querido San Telmo. To this day, I can't get enough of the cobblestone and the beautiful old colorful buildings. I'm so glad I lived in this part of town. Don't cry for me San Telmo.

PS. This is my fruit man, Raul! Mi amigo.


Plaza San Martin, San Telmo pics

Very Happy Hour at Club Museum

Wednesday night was super fun. We went to an "after office" party/dance club thing at Museum, in San Telmo. This is like our version of Taco Tuesdays, except people are in business suits, and are dancing in a 3 story warehouse club designed by the Eiffel Tower guy. Whose last name is actually Eiffel. The music was super fun, and so we might go back next Wednesday and get some dinner there too. I think this was also the night when the Norweigans learned the terms "fiesta de chorizo" and "mercado de carne". Buenos tiempos.

¿Um, Can I Come In?

Today I went over to the house of Martiniano Arce, the "Filetador de Buenos Aires". This is the place I walk by everyday, admire the building, and keep walking. Now that I know a little more about the "Filete" painting style, I was totally intrigued. I was also under the impression it was open to the public. So I walk by, and don't see a door (the house is on the top floor). I go to the little cafe underneath it, and ask the nice old man about the house up top. He said it's very beautiful there, just try buzzing the door and they might let you in. I'm like.... ooook. What exactly am I supposed to say? Well, it went a little something like this:

(after standing by the buzzer for 5 minutes, thinking of what to say)
Me: Buzz.
Lady: Si?
Me: Hello! I read in a magazine about your house. Can I see it? (Of course a giant bus storms by, and she hears nothing)
Lady: Wait, I'm coming down.
...
Lady: So... what are wanting to do?
Me: I read in a magazine about your house. Is private house, yes?
Lady: Yes
Me: So, I can come in and see it?
Lady: Welllll... (laughing a little at this point)
Me: Sorry, I understood that there is a gallery here?
Lady: Oh! The gallery is actually on Calle Cerrito, this is just his house.
Me: Riiiiight. Gracias!

So I definitley walked up to a stranger's house and asked if I can come in and see it. I was less sad about not being let in, and more happy that I didn't chicken out and managed to have this conversation. The lady was very very nice about it. It was all pretty funny. But, I was able to get a glimpse of the ceiling fan from the street, and it definitely is pimped out with the filete painting. Me loves.

Filete

So, I've mentioned before how much I'm into the "Filete" art they have here. It's less of an "art form", more of a style of decoration, very typical of Argentina. It's everywhere, and I love love love it! Today I bought another little sign for myself. I also chatted up the "Filetador" in the San Telmo market and he told me a little bit about it. Then I just googled it, and found this little article...click here

Theeennn, in the article, it mentions the workshop of Martiniano Arce. I pass by this building everyday, it's also right across from the Origen Cafe that I love so much. I'm always looking at it, thinking it's so pretty, and it has a filete style sign outside...but whatever, everything does. So turns out, it's a workshop and home of a well known filetador, and I guess, we can go inside?? I'm so gonna try tomorrow, I can't wait!

I'm sorry, liver, it's almost over

Thursday night we chilled back at Post Bar for some cervezas and popcorn and awesome blues and rock music (I happened to be craving all 3 at the same time). Then Friday we went to a reggae club and it was really super fun. Who knew I could dance to reggae music for like 5 hours?! I didn't, but then I did! The crowd was really chill (duh), the music was really good. Best part, was there was actual room to dance and I never got groped, bonus! It was a nice change from the usual dance clubs we've been going to. Saturday I forced myself out of bed, and out of the house, and did some afternoon San Telmo park strolling and cafe sitting. I actually love days like these. Later, me, Austin and Kylie had to kill some time before it was acceptable to enter a restaurant for an "early" dinner. So we had some really sad tex mex. I had to actually request for them to put cheese on our nachos. Sad. Mexican food, I miss you so! Then later we had my fave pizza and wine at my fave San Telmo pizza place. After a quick little nap (at 10:30 btw), I drag my ass back out again to meet the primos in Palermo. Good times.

Here is what I'm doing today. I'm going to see a LAKER GAME, FINALLY!! I guess there is some bar that shows american sports, and I'm all up in it later on today. ALSO, rumor has it that ladies drink free beer until 8:30pm. Well tip off is 4:30 folks. I can't wait.

We Be Jammin'

Deja Vu - Palermo Saturdays, San Telmo Sundays

Had another Saturday night out in Palermo, same club as last time. Woke up late, ate the same breakfast, and went to the San Telmo market again. I seem to have found myself a lovely little routine!

More San Telmo Pics

Feria de San Telmo

Today was one of those totally perfect days... beautiful, sunny, breezy... good day to stroll a few blocks down to the coolest antique fair ever, catch some tango. You know, the usual Sunday. The fair at Plaza Dorrego is about 4 blocks down from me. Perfecto! I browsed the stalls, and kept wondering, who BUYS this stuff?! I mean... like old rusty clocks that don't work, weird dolls, rusty spoons. It has it all. Primo Bryan and Prima Elise met up with me to go to the market. Naturally, I lost them after 10 minutes of being there. The best part is the tango shows in the middle of the plaza. So nice. Such a great day. Then a bird shit on my head. FML!!

¿Quieres bailar tango?

Beef & Wine

I finally had the much anticipated steak dinner in Buenos Aires! Took me long enough! Had dinner in San Telmo, at La Brigada, and it was pretty good (and HUGE). I'm sure there are better parillas around, but how many have really awesome underground wine cellars? Isabella and I roamed around the wine cellar for awhile, plotting how to steal a few bottles...until our waiter found us. Back at our table, a random man sent us a glass of wine to try. It was delish, and way better than the (cheapest bottle of) Malbec we ordered...For dessert, we got a crepe with dulce de leche. Que rico. But the best part was skyping with daddio when I got home! Suhweet!

Mas vino por fav

La Boca ~ El Caminito

Took a little jaunt through La Boca today. New volunteer friend Luca & I cruised through El Caminito first. My first impression was "Wow, Disneyland". It's so colorful, and SO touristy. But once that wore off and we got out of the main area, it was pretty cool. La Boca is one of the more poor areas in Buenos Aires. My book says it's the city's first port, and an African slave colony before Italian immigrants settled in the 1880s. La Boca is also home to La Boca Juniors and the soccer stadium La Bombonera (it means chocolate box? yummy?). This area has all the bright colorful buildings, people doing tango, and awesome cardboard cutouts to stick your face in.

It was fun being a true tourist today! Cameras and guidebooks and all.

More La Boca Pics Here

Origen Cafe

Today I found Origen Cafe. Thank god. I looked everywhere for a little cafe where I can park it and hang out. Maybe have some breakfast. Maybe a cerveza. Maybe both. I found it. I noticed Stellas are cheaper than Coronas (lol!). It took me 25 minutes to find it, and it's 2 blocks away... again, still taking the long way.

From there, I saw a little sushi place, a little pizza place, and heladeria (woot! ice cream), and a pastry shop called Costa Ricas. Shout out! So i bought an empanada from there.

On my way back to my piso, I found a little used book store, and met Cesar, the owner. He was really nice, made me feel welcome, and I think he was telling me of when he used to be fat and have long hair? Maybe? Anyways, I bought a book.

At this point, I had a little skip in my step, smiling a lot. The area is starting to feel more homey. Then I got home, looked in the mirror and saw a large chunk of green parsley in my teeth. fml.

Stella, Tango, Pigeons

After unpacking and trying to nap, I venture out on my own. Naturally, I take the very long way to the center of town. I ordered myself a Stella. Yessssss. Goodness. This is my first drink in BA. I know, right? Then I had some friends join me. And by friends, I mean pigeons. And by pigeons, I mean, swarms of nasty birds. Someone called them "Palomitas" (doves). I'm like no sweetie, those are not doves. I literally SCREAMED at one point when 8 landed on my table. Sigh. People got some good laughs. Anyways, it was really nice-- saw a little tango dancing, had a beer, and was on my way.

Got some groceries: 2 Cup O Noodles (hell ya chicken picante!), Water, 2 Heineken tall boys, Yogurt, Bread, Jelly, Tea.

I'm Heeeerrre!

Reporting to you from my new piso! The apartment is just like in the photos, which is a relief. There is one framed photo of Carlos Gardel on the wall, which is kinda funny, and lovely.

I have to admit, I'm totally overwhelmed right now. And totally exhausted. But I feel very welcomed here by everyone. My volunteer advisor came over to chat and go over a bunch of details (ie. this is where you live, this is where you do not go).

Time to unpack, buy some food, and take a little nappy.

Also, I completely fell out of the shower. And by completely, I mean, I yanked the shower curtains down with me. What a great start! Times I've almost broken my neck: 2.

And for those of you (Katie) who were worried about me not getting my McDonald's breakfast yesterday morning... well, guess what i had at the Buenos Aires airport! You better believe it. An Egg McBagel, except they forgot to give me the egg. It's ok, I still enjoyed it.

Here's me in my new diggs: